Yu. V. Kotchenko

THE DENSITY OF PASSING THE COMPETITION TRACK IN SPORTS CLIMBING

Abstract:

The finding of the ways to evaluate the emulative efficiency in sports climbing requires the investigation of regularity of the emulative process. On the basis of the many years of researches was determined the number of factors which influenced on result within the passing of emulative track. One of these factors is the density of performance. Over the many years of researches were investigated the performances of the sportswomen with the high level of training on international competitions in climbing discipline “difficulty” (ï = 1639). It was determined that the highest possible values of density of climbing (up to 100%) are very rare. These values occur in two cases: when the sportswoman with the low level of training passes the difficult track, and when the well-qualified sportswoman passes the easiest track. The concentration of maximum and similar to them figures of density is observed in the area of the low and medium values of sports result, and it reduced in the final stage of performance. The obtained data allow concluding that there is a low degree of connection of the density with the result of per-formance at the qualifying stage of the competitions: R = − 0.13, for common group (ï = 483), which includes fig-ures of sportswomen with both high and low levels of training. In the semi-final stage, when the sportswomen with the low level of training are eliminated, the degree of con-nection of factor with the result increases up to R = 0.30, also the level of importance of connection increases too. The average figure of density of climbing in the semifinal and final tracks is 85.8%, and this value just slightly dif-fers from the group of finalists of world competitions: 84.8%. The most common density figures among sportswomen, which demonstrating high sports results, are in the range of 80–90%. The connection of the density of climbing with the result takes the form of the nonlinear dependence of the U-shaped type, and it is described by a polynomial of the third degree, which allows to calculate the motion of an indi-vidual schedule for emulative track with given figures of density, depending on the planned result at the certain stage of performance. The regression analysis showed that the component of the result associated with the optimum choice of density, depending on the number of factors taken into account, is in the range βï = (0,030, 0,082). In the final part of the emulative track the factor of density has a direct positive impact on the result, which leads to a change in the characteristics, and other, connected with it temporary signs, for example, the tempo or unmixed time of performance.

About the autors:

Yurii Vasilevich Kotchenko, Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor of the Department of Physical Education

Place of employment:

Sevastopol State University

Contacts:

e-mail: skala7b@rambler.ru

Key words:

sports climbing; competitions; density of climbing; competition process