The paper presents the results of studies on the extraction of biologically active substances, the flavonoids primarily, from grapes Vitis Vinifera Isabella. The researchers have studied the biochemical composition of whole grapes, as well as their parts (peel, pulp, bone) and have shown that the most amount of flavonoids are found in grape seeds, while most coloring agents are contained in the peel. To be competitive, modern cosmetic products should provide a quick visible effect, be attractive, but also contain preferably natural biologically active substances, which stimulate metabolism and reparative functions of the human skin. The increasing interest of cosmetic producers and consumers to the natural ingredients is associated with both strict limitation in terms of synthetic compounds, and the producers’ desire to make their product more “natural”. The research shows that the demand for “green cosmetics” in Europe has been constantly growing over the past decade. Most popular cosmetic products are those which contain antioxidants helping to protect skin cells from oxidative stress, the negative effects of UV radiation, and thus protecting the skin against premature aging. The natural antioxidants include bioflavonoids, which are natural colorants. This is a group of phenolic compounds, one of the most common and numerous classes of biologically active substances containing aromatic rings with free or bound hydroxyl group. The phenolic compounds, with the aromatic ring contained more than one hydroxyl group, are called polyphenols. The researchers have determined the optimal parameters for the extraction process. Specifically, to extract flavonoids from grape peel it is required to use 95% ethanol as an extractant, and produce the extraction at the temperature of 60°C, with pH 5.0—6.0, liquor ratio of 1:2 for 30 minutes. To increase the yield of biologically active substances it is recommended to freeze the material at a temperature of –18°C. The authors have studied the composition of the obtained extracts, including the coloring substances and phenolic compounds in equivalent of gallic acid and determined the technological characteristics of the obtained extracts, such as resistance to light, storage duration, and temperature. The study has shown that the resulting colorant retains its consumer properties after 4 weeks at a temperature no higher than 5°C when kept in a dark place. The optimum pH should be from slightly acidic to neutral. When kept under the light conditions, the color remains stable for 3 days. The studies help optimize the technology of producing grape extract in order to use it as a colorant and a source of biologically active substances in the manufacture of cosmetic products. The authors have developed the formulation of cosmetic lotions with different concentrations of extracts and studied their organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics. The study has showed that all lotions samples cor-respond to normative documents in terms of their physical and chemical properties.
About the autors:
Marina Valerievna Bondakova, Candidate of Engineering, Deputy Chief of the Laboratory; Svetlana Nickolaevna Butova, Doctor of Biology, Professor, Head of the Department of Biotechnology and Technology of Bioorganic Synthesis; Svetlana Yurievna Soldatova, Candidate of Engineering, Assistant Professor at the Department of Biotechnology and Technology of Bioorganic Synthesis.
Place of employment:
LLC AB Tower; Мoscow State University of Food Production.
Text of scientific work: (PDF format)
flavonoids; extraction; grape extract; biologically active substances; natural colorants; consmetic products.